Kungsleden - e zimlech länge Spaziergang

"Kungsleden" - übersetzt bedütet das dr "Königspfad". Es isch e längi Wanderig in schwedisch Lappland - gnau gno 450 km, vo Hemavan nach Abisko. D Wanderig cha i Unterstreckine unterteilt wärde u sowohl nord- als o südwärts gwanderet wärde. Für üs isch klar gsi, dass mir die ganzi Strecki wette mache und nordwärts die passenderi Richtig isch. Ei Grund derfür isch, dass im nördliche Teil d Landschaft immer wie spektakulärer wird und mir so dr schönscht Teil für em Schluss chöi spare. I hamer erloubt, d Charte vo Wikipedia z kopiere, damit dir e Übersicht bechömet.

"Kungsleden" - translated as "the Kings trail". It's a long-distance hike in swedish Lappland stretching over 450 km from Hemavan to Abisko. The hike can be subdivided into different parts and you can hike north- or southbound. For us it was clear that we want to do the whole thing and that we want to hike it south to north. One reason for that is that in the north the landscape is supposed to be the most beautiful, so we would have some treat to save until the end. I copied this map from Wikipedia, in case you want to get an overview.

Am 12. Juni gäge Abe heimer üses Momo in Hemavan parkiert, üsi Rucksäck gschulteret u hei üs (e chli nervös) ufe Wäg gmacht. D Rucksäck si leider no schwerer worde aus planet u so simer mit 25 kg (Tawan), 17 kg (Selina) und 4 kg (Freddy) losgloffe. Zum Glück isch e grosse Teil vo däm Gwicht us Ässä bestande - das heisst jede Tag wirds dütlich liechter.

On 12th of June in the evening we parked our Momo in Hemavan, put the backpacks on our backs (a little nervous admittedly) and started our hike. The backpacks were even heavier than expected with 25 kg (Tawan), 17 kg (Selina) and 4 kg (Freddy). Luckily a great part of that weight was food - so every day the packs would get considerably lighter.

Gli scho si mir zimlech wyt wäg vom Dörfli gsi und hei üs scho zmitzt ire verlassene Bärgregion gfunde. Dr Kungsleden wird üs i de nächschte Täg dür verschiedeni Nationalpärk in Lappland füehre - s ghört zu eini vo de letschte Wildnis-Regione in Europa. Offizielli Saisoneröffnig vom Wanderwäg isch ersch 10 Täg nach üsem Start. Das bedütet o, dass mir nid so gnau wüsse, wie dr Zuestand vom Wäg isch - öb aui notwändige Brügge und Ruederboot scho vorhande si. Mir lös aber uf üs la zue cho, aus Absicherig heimer i de Rucksäck Ässä für ungefähr 2 Wuche derbi - s cha auso no viu Verzögerig gä.

Soon we were far away from the village and surrounded by mountains and snow. Kungsleden will lead us through a variety of old national parks of Lappland - it's one of the last wilderness regions remaining in Europe. Official season opening of the hiking trail would only be in 10 days. So we didn't know if the trail was in good condition, how much snow we would encounter and if all necessary bridges and rowing boats were in place. We went into the unknown but to be sure we had enough food to last us roughly 2 weeks - so we would be able to cope with delays.

E wyteri Sicherheitsmassnahm isch üses Garmin InReach - es Satellitentelefon. Mit däm chönnte mir imene Notfall um Hiuf rüefe und üsne Familie tägliche Positionsmäldige schicke - sehr zur Freud vo mim Grossvater wo am liebschte mit uf d Wanderig wär cho ;-) 

A further security measure was our Garmin InReach - a satellite phone. With it we would be able to call for help in case of an emergency and also send daily messages with our position to our families - much to the delight of my grandfather who himself would have loved to join us on that hike ;-)

Scho am zwöite Tag simer zimlech uf d Prob gstellt worde. Dr Tag het scho mit liechtem Räge agfange u während em Wandere isches immer intensiver worde. Derzue heimer dür grossi und zum Teil rächt töifi Schneefälder müesse loufe - Schueh und Händsche hei irgendwenn ihre Sättigungspunkt erreicht gha und mir si dürnässt gsi. Irgendwenn isch dr Tawan dür ne Schneedechi broche und mit beidne Bei imene isch-chaute See glandet und ig ha mini linki Hand nüm gspürt. Im gliche Atemzug simer no ane Bach häre gloffe wo ke Brügg vorhande isch gsi. Da isch für üs beidi klar gsi, dasses so hüt nid wyter geit. Ire Blitzaktion het dr Tawan mini gfüehlslosi Hand gwermt, ds Zäut ufgstellt, mi und dr Freddy je ine Schlafsack gsteckt und het es wermends Znacht kochet. Um üs drum het dr Wind und Räge voll Gas gäh - üses neue Zäut (MSR Elixir 2) het zur allgemeine Freud verhäbt und langsam simer aui ume uftouet. Dr Abe heimer dermit verbracht, üsi morgigi Bachüberquerig z plane.

Already on our second day we were put to the test. We started the day in a light rain which turned into much more rain during the hike. Additionally we had to cross several rather large snowfields - shoes and gloves were wet through and through after some hours of this. Then, Tawan fell through some snow knee-deep into an icy-cold lake, making both his legs wet. Additionally I didn't feel my entire left hand anymore. That was also the moment when we reached a rather big stream with no bridge in place. At this moment we both knew that we can't go on like this today. In a matter of minutes Tawan warmed my chilled hand to prevent a frost-bite, put up the tent, put me and Freddy each into a sleeping bag and cooked a warming dinner. Around us wind and rain were lashing against our new tent (MSR Elixir 2) which - to our delight - was withstanding the bad weather. And slowly we were all able to warm up again. We spent the evening planning the crossing of the stream tomorrow.

Am nächschte Morge heimer es churzes Zytfänschter ohni Räge gnutzt zum zämä packe und hei üs de gad a üsi Wasserquerig gmacht. In Erwartig heimer Sandale ipackt und o wenn z Wasser sehr chalt isch gsi isches rächt guet gange, mir hei e Stell gfunde wo nid sehr töif isch gsi. Am beschte hets natürlich dr Freddy gmacht!

Next morning we used a small window in time when there was no rain to pack away everything and to cross the stream. In expectation of this we had packed our sandals and although the water was freezing cold we were able to cross fast and without problems. Of course Freddy was the most elegant of us!

Üsi Schueh hei leider über Nacht nid tröchnet, drum heimer üs mit Plastikseck usghoufe, damit wenigschtens d Socke drin fürne Stund troche blibe.

Since our shoes didn't dry over night we put some plastic bags over our socks - to keep the socks dry even if it was just for the first hour of walking.

Nachere verrägnete Passquerig heimer de ändlich chli Sunne verwütscht und aui nasse Sache usgleit, nachere halb Stund isch fasch aues zimlech troche worde u dür das üses Gepäck dütlich liechter.

After crossing a hill in more rain we finally found some sun and instantly put all our wet things to dry. After half an hour almost everything was dry again and our packs again much lighter.

Dr Freddy nutzt d Pouse für chli Schlaf nachezhole.

Freddy always used our breaks to sleep some more. 

Am nächschte Campplätzli simer de vo junge Rentier bsuecht worde - die si zimlech neugierig.

In our next campsite we were visited by some young reindeer - they were very curious.

Fasch täglich heimer unterwägs Rentier gseh, meischtens vo zimlech nach - trotz Hund. S het üs sogar dünkt, dass sie no neugieriger wärde, sobald sie dr Freddy gseh.

Almost daily we saw reindeer, often from quite close - despite our dog. We almost thought that they start getting more curious upon seeing Freddy.

Zimlech froh simer in Ammernäs acho - z erschte Dörfli ufem Wäg und die erschti Müglichkeit, Ässä - vor auem früsches Ässä z choufe. 

Pretty glad to have arrived in Ammernäs - the first village on our trip and also the first opportunity to buy some food - especially some fresh food.

A däm Abe heimer z erschte mau so richtig schöns Wätter gha - und derzue no es sehr früsches Znacht - e nätti Abwächslig zu üsne zwöi Standarts: Stocki und Spaghetti. Bi üsne Wanderznacht heimer üs Abwächslig verschafft mit verschiedenen Saucene, Trockegmües, Trockepiuze, Eipulver und Trockefleisch. Meh Energie heimer üs mit säubergmachtem Ghee verschafft.

It was the first evening with nice weather - and in addition a fresh dinner which was a nice change to our two usuals: mashed potatoes and spaghetti. We tried to get in some variety with different sauces, dry vegetables, dry mashrooms, eggpouder and dry meat. We were able to get in some more energy with homemade Ghee.

Nach Ammernäs heimer üs wieder überne verrägnete Pass kämpft. Verrägnet isch eigentlich dütlich untertriebe - dr Räge isch dürne starche Wind horizontal cho und innerhalb vore Viertelstund simer dürnässt gsi - u leider ke Schutzhütte ir Nechi. So heimer dä Pass so schnäu wie müglich hinter üs bracht und si uf dr andere Site de mit schönerem Wätter belohnt worde.

After Ammernäs we fought our way over another mountain with rain. Rain is a bit of an understatement - the wind caused the rain to hit us from the side and within a quarter of an hour we were wet to the bone - and no emergency hut close-by. So we walked as fast as we could and were rewarded with better weather.

Dr Wäg isch immer enorm guet markiert, mängisch sogar miteme Härz.

The trail is always marked very clearly, sometimes even with a heart.

Nach so eme nasse Tag simer ungloublich froh gsi um es Notfallhüttli mit Ofe und Holz für üsi Sache mau guet troche z becho. Entlang vom Kungsleden gits a de abglägene Stelle immer wieder settigi Notfallhüttli.

After such a wet day we were really glad to camp next to an emergency hut with an oven and wood to dry our things completely. Along Kungsleden such emergency huts are found quite often and especially in the most remote places.

Gschlafe heimer aber de im Zäut - zum grosse Unverständnis vom Freddy. Nach dr Aberundi het är unbedingt zrugg is Hüttli wöuä - nid is Zäut.

We slept in the tent - which Freddy couldn't understand at all. After our evening stroll he insisted on going back into the hut and not into our tent..

Amene andere Tag simer o ine Hütte gflüchet - dises mau nid vorem Räge, sondern vor dä Mugge. A däm Tag simer dürne Mugge-infestierte Wald gloffe. S het so viu Mugge gha, dass nid mau dr DEET-Spray gholfe het - Pouse heimer fasch keni chönne mache, sobald mir gstoppt hei simer übersäit worde mit Mugge. Dises mau heimer (zu Freddys Freud) sogar im Hüttli gschlafe.

Another day we also hid away in a hut - this time not because of rain but because of the mosquitos. This day we had to walk through a forest infested with lots of mosquitos. It was so bad that our DEET-spray didn't really help anymore - we were hardly able to stop for lunch - otherwise we were soon covered in mosquitos. This time we even slept inside the hut - much to Freddys delight.

A nasse, sumpfige Stelle hets hüfig sehr gäbigi Holzbrätter. S het aber o viu Stelle wo Brätter nötig wäre und keni vorhande si... 

On wet, boggy parts of the trail there's often nice wodden boards. But we also found a lot of places where boards would have been nice but none were present...

... das het de mängisch Spure hinterlah.

... which often left us with quite muddy paws.

D Fischruete heimer o ipackt gha - u a däm vielversprächende See heimer zimlech schnäu Erfolg gha.

Of course we also packed our fishing rods - and on this promising looking lake we were successfull pretty fast.

Und zwar gad mit edle Saiblinge - das isch e Fisch us dr Lachsfamilie wo nume i chalte, sehr subere Gwässer vorchunnt. Mä erkennt sä ganz guet am füür-rote Buuch.

We were able to fish Arctic Char - a Salmonid which lives only in cold and clean water. You can easily recognize them because of the nicely red belly.

Eine vo dene schöne Tier heimer de bhalte für üsi Spaghetti z verfiinere.

We kept one of those wonderful fishes to refine our spaghetti today.

So wunderschön rot isch z Fleisch vomene Saibling.

That's how wonderfully red the meat of Arctic Char looks.

Am nächschte Tag simer scho wieder vo Rentier bsuecht worde.

Next day we met reindeer again.

Mittlerwile hets a jedem Bach es Brüggli gäh - zu üsere Erliechterig.

In the meantime each stream had its bridge - much to our delight.

Inzwüsche heimer z Dörfli Jäkkvik erreicht. Dert heimer üs e Nacht ir Herberge gönnt - so heimer mau üsi Chleider chönne wäsche und e warmi, längi Duschi chönne gniesse. S isch o z letschte Dörfli gsi miteme Supermarkt. Ab itz wärde mir üse Proviant nume no i de Bärghütte chönne ergänze. Churz nach Jäkkvik heimer üsi erschti Bootfahrt gmacht, in Ruederboot.

In the meantime we reached the village Jäkkvik. We spent the night in the local hostel - to wash our clothes and enjoy a nice, warm, long shower. Jäkkvik was also the last village with a supermarket. From here on out we would have to carry our food or buy it in the mountain huts. Shortly after Jäkkvik we mastered our first boatride - in rowboat.

Mir beidi hei nie richtig glehrt Ruedere - am Afang heimer zimlech Müehi gha mitem Stüüre - gäge Schluss vom Kungsleden, nach 2 wytere Ruederbootfahrte heimer aber dr Dräi dusse gha.

We both have never learned to row properly - and at the beginning we had much trouble with steering. But at the end of Kungsleden, after two more rowing boat crossings, we had it pretty much figured out.

Z erfreulichschte a dene Tage isch gsi, dass z Wätter komplett dräit het - bishär heimer jede Morge Räge gha. Vo Jäckvik ah nordwärts heimer über ei Wuche lang nume Sunne gha - bis Abisko isches no ei einzige Rägetag gsi. Das isch ussergwöhnlich guets Wätter füre Kungsleden.

The best about the days now was a complete change in weather - up to now we experienced rain every morning. From Jäckvik on northbound we had sun during more than a week - until Abisko we had only one more day of rain. And that's extraordinarily good weather for Kungsleden.

Diversi Brügge si kaputt - kes Wunder bi dene länge u stränge Wintere.

Several bridges were destroyed - which is not astonishing with the long and hard winters.

Hie isch dr Tawan sini Socke am tröchne - hie heter nämlich mit sine Schueh derdür müesse wüu är dr Freddy het müesse übere trage - s isch eifach z töif gsi fürne Hund und i de Sandale het d Trittfeschtigkeit nid glängt.

In this picture you can see Tawan drying his socks because he had to cross this river in his hiking boots. He had to carry Freddy because the river was too deep for him to cross alone. And in sandals the grip was not good enough.

Wieder mau es neugierig-frächs Rentier.

Another noisy reindeer.

Mir si zimlech überwältiget gsi vo dr unändliche Wyti u de unzählige Wuulche wo kes Ändi wei näh.

We were quite overwhelmed with the endless view and the countless clouds. 

Muskelkater heimer nach 1.5 Wuche kene me gha, o wemer mittlerwile pro Tag normalerwys meh als 20 km zrügglege. Aber d Glänk und vor auem d Füess tüe täglich weh. Schön isch, dasses jede Tag amene andere Ort weh tuet - und vor auem, dass mir keni Blattere a de Füess hei - trotz 3 Täg nasse Füess. Hie het dr Tawan sini Schueh so modifiziert, dass e Druckstell behobe wird und ds Wyterwandere wieder agnähmer wird. 

After 1.5 weeks hiking we were free of muscle ache, even though we managed to hike more than 20 km per day. But the joints and especially our feet were aching daily. It was quite nice that every day the pain was a bit different, and the best was: no blisters on our feet - even though we hiked with wet feet during three days. In this picture Tawan was modifying his shoes in order to get rid of some pressure points and to make the hike on more comfortable.

O gäge z Liechter-Wärde vom Rucksack heimer e Lösig gfunde - das wunderschöne Rentiergweih het natürlich mit müesse.

We even found a remedy against the backpack which was getting always lighter. This wonderful reindeer antler had to go along the hike.

Das isch e traditionelli Notfallhütte im lappische Stil.

This is a traditional laponian emergency hut.

Ume mau e sehr schöne Campplatz.

Another scenic camp spot.

Und dr Freddy het sogar no chli Energie übrig für si Job als Wachhund z übernäh.

And Freddy even had some energy left to get back to his job as guard dog.

D Spiegelige im Wasser si ungloublich schön.

The reflexions in the lakes were so beautiful.

Im Sarek Nationalpark heimer wunderschöni Tanneböim gseh.

In Sarek Nationalpark we saw beautiful pine trees.

Hie heimer gad e Ruederfahrt vo 3.3 km hinter üs bracht. Mit Wind. Am Ändi vome Wandertag. S isch sträng gsi.

Here we finished a rowing crossing of 3.3 km. With wind. After a long hiking day. It was quite hard.

Gad nachhär het dr Tawan z kämpfe gha mitere allergische Reaktion nachdäm e Mugge i sis Oug gfloge isch.

And after the boat ride Tawan had to fight an allergic reaction after a mosquito flew into his eye.

S het eifach soo viu vo dene...

There's simply so much of them... 

Älgpotatis = Elchkartoffeln - d Chüble si gfüllt mit Elch-Kot und dri pflanzt si Härdöpfle.

Älgpotatis = Elkpotatoes - the pots are filled with elk poo in which some potatoes are planted.

O d Ussicht uf z Rapa-Delta heimer üs nid la näh - o wes e chli e Umwäg vom Kungsleden bedütet het. Bis ganz ufe Skierffe (dr Bärg wome die beschti Ussicht uf das schöne grosse Delta het) het aber d Chraft nid glängt.

We enjoyed the view on Rapa-Delta even if it meant some extra kilometers not included in Kungsleden. We didn't make it on the peak Skierffe, where the best view on the delta can be viewed - we simply didn't have the strength that day.

Oberhalb vo Saltoluokta simer wieder mau mitere wunderschöne Ussicht belohnt worde. I settigne Momente simer äxtra dankbar gsi fürs schöne Wätter - so schad wärs, wenn die Ussicht hinter Rägewulche verschleieret blibe wär.

Above Saltoluokta we were rewarded with another lovely view. During those moments we were really glad to have good weather - it would be such a pity if those peaks would hide behind rain clouds.

In Saltoluokta heimer üs ar Bärgstation es All-You-Can-Eat Zmorge gönnt. Nach mittlerwile meh aus 2 Wuche wandere heimer bsunders Luscht gha ufe Orangesaft, es guets Kaffe, Gurke, Peperoni, früsches Brot und feini Confi.

In Saltoluokta we went for an All-You-Can-Eat Breakfast in the mountain station. After 2 weeks of hiking we had a burning desire for orange juice, good coffee, cucombers, peppers, fresh bread and marmalade.

Vo Saltoluokta heimer wieder mau es Motorboot müesse näh und während 30 km e Busfahrt chönne gniesse. Vo Vakkotavare heimer üs ufe letschts Abschnitt gmacht i Richtig Abisko. Mittlerwile simer voll motiviert gsi, i länge Täg viu Strecki hinter üs z bringe. Mir si sehr gspannt gsi uf dä letscht, anschiinend schönscht Abschnitt.

From Saltoluokta we took another boatride by motor boat and also a busride for 30km. From Vakkotavare we started our last part of Kungsleden leading to Abisko. We were now fully motivated to make some long days to get a lot of distance behind us. We were very excited for that last part which was supposed to be the most beautiful.

Die länge Täg hei üs am Abe sehr müed gmacht.

The long hiking days left us very tired in the evenings.

Das Schild het üs zimlech zum Lache bracht - hüfig hei mir üs definitiv wie im Fium "Herr der Ringe" gfüehlt.

This sign made us laugh. Often we felt like being in a "Lord of the Rings" film.

So luegt dr Freddy we mir Rentier gseh.. Vo wyt wäg... we si necher chöme, de nimmt är ä zimlech ängschtlichi Position i.

That's how Freddy looks when he sees reindeer - from afar. As soon as they get close he gets pretty scared of them.

D Landschaft isch definitiv sehr beidruckend worde. Mir si während öppe 70 km imene länge Tal gloffe, links und rächts schöni schneebedeckti Bärgä.

The landscape became very impressive indeed. During 70 km we walked along the same valley, left and right snowcovered mountains.

O hie simer wieder ungloublich dankbar ums schöne Wätter gsi.

Again we were very thankful for the nice weather.

Ufem nächschte Biud gseht mä üse letscht Pass, dr Tjäktja-Pass, zuglich dr höchscht Punkt vor Wanderig (1100 m.ü.M.)

On the next picte you can see the last hill, Tjäktia-Pass, which was also the highest point on the entire Kungsleden, 1100 m.a.s.

Und hie di spektakuläri Ussicht vom Pass is Tal womir die letschte paar Stund mit Wandere verbracht hei.

And here the spectacular view from the highest point. We looked back into the valley where we had spent lots of hours hiking.

Hie d Ussicht is nächschte Tal wo üs nach Abisko wird füehre.

Here is the view into the next valley which would guide us to Abisko.

Mittlerwile simer aui zimlech fit, aber dür üsi 30 km-Täg o sehr erschöpft.

Meanwhile we were all pretty strong and fit, but 30km a day made us quite exhausted anyway.

Am 2. Juli am Abe simer in Abisko düre "Zielboge" cho.

On the evening on 2th of July we arrived in Abisko.

Überglücklich, dass mirs nach 20 Täg nach Abisko gschafft hei, aber irgendwie heimers i däm Moment no nid so ganz erfasst. Die letschte 3 km si bsunders schwär gsi, d Sunne und dr Abstieg vo dä Bärge het üs igheizt, s isch 25 Grad warm gsi. I de letschte 300 Meter heimer aber nomau e Energieschub becho und hei e 32 km-Tag abgschlosse.

Overly happy to have made it to Abisko in 20 days - but not yet grasping it completely. The last 3 km were especially hard, the sun and the low altitude meant very hot weather - 25 degree. During the last 300 meters we had another energy boost and were keen to finish our 32 km-day.

Am Ziel heimer üs es chüels Bier und e Portion Rentier-Eintopf gönnt, dr Freddy het e grossi Protion Köttbullar becho unds sehr gnosse.

In Abisko we enjoyed a chilled beer, a portion of reindeer stew and Freddy got a big portion of Köttbullar.

D Pouse während dr länge Busfahrt heimer zum Schlafe gnutzt!

We used the breaks during the long busride back to Hemavan to sleep and relax!