Nordliechter

 

Mir hei iz scho lenger nüt me vo üs la ghöre. Das het überhoupt nid dranne gläge, dass mir nüt erläbt hätte, entsprächend wird das hie e chli e lengere Itrag. Meh isch üs im Wäg gstande, dass d Fingerspitze zu chaut si gsi für Fotos z verarbeite. U zudäm heimer aues wo üsi Outobatterie het möge häregäh wöuä für d Heizig chönne bruche. Niemer wett e chauti Nacht zugunste vomene Blogitrag riskiere.

Z letscht heimer üs gmäudet mit dr Hoffnig, gli Nordliechter chönne z beobachte. Üse Wunsch isch mehrfach erfüllt worde und i Umstände wo mir üs nid hätte la ertröime. Aber aues vo Vore...

... in finnisch Lappland simer amene schöne See gstande und hei üs la ischneie, ir Hoffnig ir Nacht mit Nordliechter belohnt z wärde. In Finnland si mir leider nid belohnt worde für üsi Geduld. Mir hei denn spontan entschlosse, nach Norwege wyter z zieh. Vorhär isch aber für üs no e Muetprob agstande: e Duschi isch dringend nötig gsi und wüus haut gad weder es Schwümmbad no e Tennishalle ir Nechi het gha, heimer üses Vorzält so dicht wie Müglich gmacht, viu Wasser ufkochet und hei e Outdoor-Duschi „gnosse“. Wo mir am gliche Abe du über di finnisch-norwegischi Gränze gfahre si hei mir mit Freude festgstellt dass dr Himmu glasklar isch. Tuusigi vo Stärne hei sich afa zeige u mir hei gwüsst, wenns hüt Nordliechter i dere Region sött gäh, de wärde mir sä chönne gseh!

Its been a while when we last updated our blog. The reason was certainly not a lack of stories to tell, so this is gonna be quite a long read. Rather a big obstacle is freezing fingers during editing of pictures. Also a concern were our car batterie - we needed all the power available to get our heater running during nights. Nobody wants to spend a night freezing just to edit some pictures.

Last time we were hoping to soon see northern lights. Our wish has been granted, several times over and in places we would not have dared dreaming of. But lets start at the beginning.

... in finnish Laplan we stayed on a beautiful lake and watched the snow fall, hopeful for a night with green lights above us. In finland our patience did not yet pay out. We spontaneously decided to head over to Norway. But first we had to proof some braveness: we desperatedly needed to shower and there was no tennis court nor ar swimming hall nearby, so we decided to heat up our awning, heat up some water and "enjoy" an outdoor-shower. As we passed the finnish-norwegian border the same evening we discovered with some joy that the sky was as clear as we've never seen before. Millions of stars twinkled above and we knew - if the northern ligths are happening tonight - we will see them.

So hei mir bi -8 Grad Znacht kochet, si is gheizte Dachzelt und hei ab und zue e Blick usem Panoramafänschter im Dach gworfe. Und plötzlich het mä ä läng zogne Fade übere ganz Himmu gseh. Ganz ehrlich gseit sie mir im erschte Moment no nid völlig sicher gsi, öb sä das itze si, die Nordliechter. Vo Oug hetts zum verwächsle Ähnlich usgseh wie e (zu hälli) Wolke. O wenn das no eher schwachi Nordliechter si gsi, het mä du mit dr Kamera die schöni grüeni Farb zum Vorschiin chönne bringe.

So we prepared dinner with -8°C, went up into our heated tent and now and then glanced through our panorama windows. And suddenly a long thread was present over the entire sky. To be honest, at first glance we were not entirely sure if those were northern lights. Seen by eye it almost looked like a cloud, just a bit brighter, but still white. But once the camera was set up and we could see the nice green color, we could be sure. Those were quite weak northern lights (which we only realized later on). 

Obwohls bitter chalt isch gsi si mir a däm Abe insgesamt drü Mau usem Zält wieder use ga fotografiere, wüus immer schöner und intensiver isch worde. E Wuche speter wärde mir zrugg luege u üs amüsiere, für wie „schwachi“ Liechter mir üsi Zäiie hei la friere. A däm Abe hett üs d Faszination uf au fäu packt und mir si o sehr erliechteret gsi, dass mir uf üsere „Jagd“ immerhin ei Erfolg z verzeichne hei.

Am Nächschte Morge hei mir de gmerkt, wie chaut dasses effektiv isch. Schlafe isch für üs gar kes Problem, d Heizig funktioniert tiptop. Es sei denn, mä vergisst Diesel nachezfülle, de wacht mä zmitzt ir Nacht uf, dänkt „hui, isch chli früsch, i due mau d Heizig wermer istelle“, kuschlet sich ume unger d Decki ir Erwartig vomene agnähm wermere Luftstrom, erwachet 5 Minute speter no früscher u merkt, dass d Heizig gar nümme louft.... Das isch zum Glück i dere Nacht nid passiert, glichwou si mir am Morge überrascht worde was aues e so cha gfriere. Mitem Wasser heimer natürlich grächnet, da heimer o chli öppis a d Wermi mit ufe gnoh. Aber da wär no ds nasse Abtröchnitüechli wo nach 15 Minute es stiifs Brätt isch. Usserdäm gfriert Zahnpasta, Oliveöl, Frücht und Chopfchüssi (solang z Zäut no nid gheizt isch, si Schuumstoffchüssi bi -8 Grad öppe so weich und kuschlig wine Betonplatte). We e Pfanne es paar Tropfe Wasser undedranne het u nid warm isch de chläbt sie innert 5 Minute ar Unterlag fescht.

Even though the night was bitterly cold, we went out of our tent 3 times this evening to take pictures, since the lights became more and more brilliant and started to dance. One week later we would look back and be amused. Such effort for such "weak" northern lights and in such cold conditions. But in those first hours we were so fascinated and also relieved to have been successfull in our "chase".

The next morning showed us how cold the night really was. We don't have a problem sleeping in the cold, as long as our heater is working. The heater works, as long as one does not forget to refill the diesel tank... If one forgets to refill the diesel tank one wakes up in the middle of the night and things "hui, its quite fresh, lets turn the heater on a higher level", gets back to sleep, wakes up 5 minutes later, yet colder and realises that the heater has stopped working entierly.... Luckily this mistake happened only once. This morning we were quite surprised of what items are capable of freezing. Of course we anticipated water to freeze down, so we took some water up into the tent. But frozen were also the dish towl, tooth paste, olive oil, fruits, our pillows!! If you leave some dropplets of water below a pot and you let it sit on the table, it will have frozen tight to the table within 5 Minutes.

So heimer luschtigi u weniger luschtigi Entdeckige gmacht u für aui Problem de o die entsprächende Lösige gfunde. Z Oliveöl geit haut bim Ufheize vom Chocher chli ad Wermi ga schmelze..

So we had to get inventive to solve some problems. The frozen olive oil we had to preheat before being able to use it to cook.

Am Morge nach üsere erschte Nordliechtnacht si mir de amene zimlech chüele Zmorge ghocket (we z Kaffee nid innerhalb vo 5 Minute läär trunke isch, de het mä gli Isch-Kaffee) u si nid bsunders liislig gsi wo mir plötzlich e schöne Rotfuchs gseh cho z trabe. Er isch schön uf üs zue gloffe, het uf üsere Höchi e chlini Abzweigig gno u isch när gmüetlich wyter gloffe. Im Muu het er e Muus oder süsch es chlises Bütetier treit. Mir si usem stuune nüm use cho und so isch z einzige Foto wo isch müglich gsi vo sine Pfoteabdrück gsi woner hinterlah het.

Also on the same morning we sat on our table having breakfast (drink your coffee within 5 minutes - otherwise you get iced coffee) and we were not especially silent when suddenly a fox came close to us. He just walked straight into our direction, a mouse in his mouth. Once in our reach he turned 90° and trotted on, probably in the direction of his cave. We were quite astonished and were only able to take a picture of the paw print he left behind.

Ir schöne Winterwäut hei mir üs wyter gmacht ufem Wäg richtig Nordkapp.

In a beautiful world of winter we drove on in direction of northern cape.

Zmitzt ir Nacht (auso öppe am 6i am Abe....) si mir du mitsamt eme Schneesturm am Nordkapp acho. Zersch hei mir im Wind inne dänkt, mir müessi umdräie, amene andere Ort ga schlafe und morn wieder cho. Aber denn hei mir es einigermasse windstills Plätzli gfunde und hei sogar Zuegang zur Meridianchugle. Mir chöis chuum gloube wo mir ds Nordkapp so zimlech für üs allei chöi gniesse. Natürlich isches e chli e Meilestei uf üsere Reis, mir hei dr höchscht Norde vom europäische Festland erreicht.

In the middle of the night (so roughly at 6 pm) we arrived in accompanied by a snow storm at Nordkapp. We first thought it was too windy to stay the night, but in the end we found some shade from the wind and found that the way to the Meridian statue was free. Incredibly we were more or less alone on Nordkapp. Of course we are overjoyed, we reached an important goal on our journey.

Nach däm Biud zieht no einisch e Schneesturm uf, mir zieh üs is Dachzelt zrugg und dänke, hüt wird nüt mit Nordliechter. Aber wies dr Vorteil isch weme ar norwegische Küschte steit: we eim z Wätter nid passt, muess mä im Schnitt e haub Stund warte, de gsehts ume anders us. Und wo dr Schneesturm abflaut und mir usem Dachzeltfänschter luege chöimer üses Glück nid fasse: Nordliechter si da. U zwar viu stercher und schöner auses geschter Nacht dr Fall isch gsi.

After the picture above another snow storm arrived and we took shelther in our tent. We thought to ourselves that today we could forget about spotting the northern lights. But the big advantage of camping on the atlantic shore is: if you don't like the weather - wait half an hour and check again. And after this snowstorm we glanced through our tent window and could not grasp our luck: the northern lights were back - and in a whole different level in intensity than yesterday.

Hüt gseht mä eidütig vo Oug die grüene Farbe. Es würkt aus wäre d Liechter öppe 20 Meter oberhalb vo eim und we dr Wind chräftig wäit, de tanzt dr haub Himmu. Mir chöi üs chuum satt luege u gö ersch wieder ga schlafe wo neui Wulke z Tanze am Himmu verschatte.

We could clearly see the green color by eye. It appears that the lights are just 20 meters above us and when the wind blows strong, they start dancing. We can't stop looking up and only return to bed when a new cover of clouds covers the sky.

Am nächschte Morge wache mir haub verschneit uf und gseh de di markanti Felswand no bi Tagesliecht.

Next morning our tent has a snow cover and we see the nice sourrounding by daylight.

U iz no für ganz korrekt z si: ds Nordkapp bzw. Dr Fels wo d Meridianchugle druffe steit isch nid ganz exakt dr nördlichscht Punkt vom europäische Festland. Dä ligt uf dr Landzunge gad westlich vom Nordkapp. Im Summer chame dert o usewandere, aber üs hätts äuä iz Meer gluftet.

And to be completely correct: Nordkapp as it is famous is not the exact northernmost point of  the european land mass. The true northernmost point is on a stripe of land a little more to the west than the Nordkapp. During summer there's a nice hike out there, but now we would have risked being blown into the ocean.

Sehr erfüllt vo üsem Glück vo de Nordliechter am Nordkapp fahre mir ine neue Tag.

Overjoyed of our sighing of northern lights on Nordkapp we drive into a new day.

Unterwägs ar norwegische Küste rächne mir zersch nid mit vilne Wildtier. Wo mir aber Haut mache und e chli de Felse entlang spaziere touche plötzlich ganz viu verschideni Tier uf. Leider isch mini Kamera nid optimal usgrüschtet für die schöne Tier abzliechte, aber zmingscht e Idee chani biete.

Es paar Seeadler, e Seehund a jedem Ort wo mir ghaute hei, Einsiedlerchrebse und einisch o e (vermuetliche) Delfin.

On the road on the norwegian coast line we first don't expect to see much wildlife. But as we stop for a quick walk, lots of different animals appear. Even though the pictures are not perfect, you can get an idea of the beauty of those creatures. Some sea eagles, a seal everywhere we stopped, some crabs and once also (probably) a dolphin.

Und Momo tarnt sich o nid so schlächt ir natürliche Umgäbig.

And even Momo does a good job of melting into its surrounding.

O a däm Abe tanze wieder d Nordliechter über üs. S isch nie z gliche wie am vordere Abe und jedes Mau machts Freud we sie wieder da si.

Also during this evening the northern lights dance above us. It's never the same as the previous evening and we are always very happy to observe them.

Mir läse diversi Gschichte drüber, was d Mönsche sich für Gedanke gmacht hei über d Nordliechter, wo mä no nid gnau het chönne erkläre, wohär das Phänomen chunnt. Natürlich het mä dänkt, d Liehcter wärde vo Götter verursacht und dass sie e gwüssi Bedütig hei, zum Bispiu dass Chrieg und Hungersnöt astöh. D Same hei d Liechter aus Zeiche vo de Tote düet und insbesondere wenns roti Norliechter het gäh hei sie Unglück erwartet. Sie hei sich de ruhig ghaute, d Chind hei nüm veruse dörfe bis dr Zorn vo de Tote abgflaut isch. D Inuits hei verschidnige Dütige gha. Einersits hei sie gloubt, das entstöngi wenn ihri Verstorbene im Jensits mit Walrossschädle Ballspiel mache. Anderersits isches e Fakelerlüchtete Wäg gsi für die früsch Verstorbene, damit sie dr Wäg is Jensits finde. In Finnland bedütet z Wort «Revontulet» o Polarfuchs und d Sage säge, dass dr Polarfuchs bim Herumloufe i de Bärge mit sim Schwanz dr Bode berüehrt und när farbegi Funke us dr Berüehrig entstöh. Und Chind wo untereme Nordliechthimu erzügt wärde, söue bsunders intelligänt si.

We have read about the tales of the northern lights. How people in the early days tried to explain the phenomenon. Ofcourse it was mostly explained to be some message from the gods or some kind of deity, proclaiming oncoming war or famine. The Sami people believed  that the dead, in thier wrath, tried to communicate with the living and hence predicted death and misfortune. Therefore they lived cautiously, keepin children in shelter, until the wrath of the death was over. The Inuits on the other hand had other explanations. For one they explained that the dead played  ball with walross-skulls on "the other side". Another example was that it was the way sign to heaven for the dead. For the Finns, the"Revontulets", which means Polar-Foxes in Finnish, strolled around in the Mountains and while strolling, their tail hit the ground and sparkles which in turn we can see as northern lights. Children who were conceived under visible northern lights are said to be specially gifted and intelligent.

In Norwege gits natürlich a jedem Egge Glägeheit zum Fische. Meischtens ire wunderschöne Umgäbig. Usserdäm het mä nach churzer Zyt meischtens Erfolg und muess sich nid mal bsunders gschickt astelle. So hets a eim Abe Seelachs gäh und es paar Täg druf de no feine Kabeljau.

There are many possibilities to fish and many fishes to catch in Norway. Mostly in georgous landscapes. The time until you catch several good size fishes ist in most cases short without the need to be good at controlling you lure. Most of the fishes we found were cod and saithe.

Bir Fahrt düre Norde gseh mir i viune Buchte o Fischzuchte.

During the trip through the north we could see many fish farms.

Nachem Nordkapp si mir nach Senja gfahre, e schöni Insle nördlich vo de Lofote.

Senja was a wonderful island north to the lofot islands with stunning landscape.

O dert si d Nordliechter wieder cho. Mittlerwile hätt mä chönne meine, mir chönni die fängs guet erkenne. We sie aber gad am uftouche si de isches meischtens nume e fiine Schimmer überem Himmu u nid ganz eifach z erkenne. So het dr Tawan a däm Abe ganz empört a Himmu zeigt u het gseit «I ha bim parkiere gar nid gseh, dasses hie e so e blööde Schiinwärfer het, so gseh mir de d Nordliechter weniger guet....» S het sich du usegstellt, dass dä blöd Schinwärfer plötzlich grüen und blau isch word und het afa tanze.

Northern lights can also be seen in Senja. One could assume that after so many nights with northern lights, a sense for northern lights detection would have been developed.... Until suddenly, Tawan pointed to the sky disappointedly and said: "While parking our car, I haven't seen that there is a damned spotlight pointing at the sky, disturbing our northern lights sighting". Several minutes later, the "spotlight" turned green and blue, and suddenly moved like norther lights would :)

Nach Senja hets üs uf d Lofote zoge. D Lofote si es wunderschöns Bizz Ärde. Sehr steili Bärge und Insle wärde umgäh vo sehr klarem Wasser. Weme de vomene Hoger uf z Wasser abeluegt gits zum teil türkisfarbigs Wasser wie ir Karibik (nume natürlich dütlich cheuter).

After Senja we travelled on to the Lofot islands, which is a truly mazing place to be. There are many steep mountains with crystal clear seas, lakes and rivers. Looking at the sea from the mountain, the water is colored turquoise like in the caribbean (much much colder though).

Ir erschte Nacht uf de Lofote si starchi Nordliechter agseit gsi. Leider aber o Bewölkig. Das het aber när e spektakulär Mischig vo Grüen und Wulke gäh.

First night we spent on the lofots strong northern lights were forecasted, but also clouds. The mixture of both was spectacular to behold. 

Dank em Golfstrom isches uf de Lofote e chli wermer aus ufem Festland. Mir hei düre Tag teilwis «tropischi» 4 Grad chönne gniesse.

Thanks to the golf stream the lofots have a relatively warm climate, compared to the rest of Norway. During daytime we sometimes enjoyed "tropical" 4°C.

Wo mir ei Nami am Fische si gsi isch e Seehund direkt näbe üs uftoucht. Er het sich de när sänkrächt im Wasser ufgrichtet und isch wie e Zapfe gschwumme während däm är üs beobachtet het. Nachere haube Minute ischer wieder abtouchet und zwe Meter wyter äne wieder ufe cho, het sini Beobachtig wiederholt und so het är üs us aune mügliche Winkle beguetachtet. Irgendwenn ischer äuä zum Schluss cho, dass mir glich nid so spannend si u isch de ganz abtoucht.

Once we were fishing in the afternoon when suddenly a seal appeared directly in front of us in the water. He righted himself in the water and just drifted there and observed us. After half a minute he dived and resurfaced two meters further to the right and took his observation up again. In that manner he appraised us from every possible angle before coming to the decision that we are not worth the effort after all and disappeared again.

Iz hoffe mir ganz fescht, dass euch d Nordliechter no nid verleidet si, wüu die spektakulärschti Nordliechtnacht chunnt ersch no.

Agfange hei sie scho am 7ni, wo mir no am Znacht ässe si gsi.

Now we hope that you're not yet tired of the northern lights. The best night is still to come. 

The show was starting already at 7 pm, while we were still at dinner.

Und über öppe 2 Stund isches eifach immer wie meh und meh worde. Zum Grüen isch Gälb, Orange, Blau und Pink derzue cho und Forme und Bewegige hets i aune mügliche Kombinatione gäh.

And during more than 2 hours they alway increase. Additionally to green we saw yellow, orange, blue, pink and forms and movements in all possible combinations.

Hie im Norde um die Jahreszyt geit d Sunne theoretisch am 7.45 uf (aber s steit meischtens no e Bärg vor dr Sunne) und öppe am 15.30 wieder abe. D Tage si churz. Wär verschlaft het verlohre. Das wenige Sunneliecht het üs komischerwys inspiriert, es Solarpanel uf üsi Dachbox z montiere....

Here in the north at this time of the year the sun is rising at 7.45 (in theory - in reality you always have a mountain in front of you to delay sunrise for another hour) and sets at 15.30. The days are already short. Oversleeping is punished with a crazily short day. Strangely enough in this little daylight we were inspired to install a solar panel... 

Es funktioniert tiptop. Dr wahr Grund hinter dere Arbeit steckt ir Batterie wo eifach chli Unterstützig brucht weme meh aus ei Nacht amene Ort wetti stah und glichwohl no Chüelschrank oder Heizig bruucht.

Itz chöme no einisch diversi Idrück vo de wunderschöne Lofote wo definitiv e Reis wärt si!

It's working like a charm. The true reason why we did this work is that our battery can use some support, especiall when we want to stay in a place for more than one night and still use our fridge or heater.

Now some last impressions why the beautiful Lofots are worth a journey!

Mir verabschiede üs bis es anders mau - Ha en fin dag! (häb e schöne Tag)

We say goodbye - ha en fin dag (have a nice day!)